April 29
Back to Kaloko Honokohau NHP where it was 92 degrees while we walked to the petroglyphs and looked for Honu. Struck out again on the sea turtles. We stopped in Kona at the Island Naturals Market so I could stock up on ginger. I ate and drank so much ginger in preparation for the evening's manta ray canoe trip. I'm so glad I did. I also used my prescription anti-nausea cream which helped.
Since we were already at Kona my friend decided we should go all the way south to Punalu'u Black sand beach to find Honu. They are purportedly all over the area. Success! There was one tired Honu hanging out, protected by a square of lava rocks put there by the lifeguards to keep people from walking right up to it- at least until they are off duty. This one was totally chill laxin' on the black sand. Honu are a symbol of wisdom and good luck, longevity, safety, and mana (spiritual energy). I feel so fortunate to have finally seen one.
I met an Elder making jewelry at the beach. She was bent over and struggling a bit to put together a bracelet. She was so full of light and happiness, I couldn't help but buy a few things from her. Such sweetness living alone far away from any small town.
After the beach we drove out to find the almost the southern most point of the island and the US but found out later we weren't quite there. We passed the Big Island Farm Sanctuary. They rescue farm animals and they're out here isolated. Next time we hope to do their tour.
The Manta ray canoe trip at night was mantastic! We went out with Anelakai Adventures in a double hull canoe. You can stay in the canoe or snorkel. Every superlative imagined fit the evening. There were swells so I was scared of vomiting. But it was dark which helped as did the promethazine cream. We got into the double canoe- carefully. We were told no pooping, no peeing, no puking in the canoe and don't ask. LOL We paddled out for about five minutes into the small bay.
Four of the people got into the water with their snorkel gear. My friend and I sat in the canoe since I can't snorkel. It was still amazing. I could have reached out and touched the reef mantas. These 6 to 10-foot mantas somersaulted as they fed on the plankton attracted to the lights under the canoe. (There's also restaurant there with a spotlight and you can sit there and watch them, too, just not as close). There was another stinky boat with a large group of snorkelers holding onto pool noodles and another piece of equipment. Too many people and too much noise but I was so excited to see the mantas and needlefish and not get seasick to care much.
I soaked myself paddling the canoe. Thankfully I brought a wet sack to stuff our belongings in. I loved the guides- they were hilarious and knowledgeable and cautious. There were tears into the ocean from happiness but also from realizing I couldn't share this experience with my son. Fortunately, it was dark so no one could see. At one point I just sat there, inhaled, looked to the dark sky, and became the moment. It was a moment of clarity and love.
I have been fascinated by manta rays for as long as I can remember. In Hawaiian manta rays are an Amakua and their name is hahalua- "ha" meaning breath and "lua" meaning two. The experience of manta allows a person to begin anew in time and space. I say life-changing and that was my experience. Amakua is a personal or family god- family members who have died and been deified, returning in a different form.
April 30
We went into Hawi for a little more shopping. I had to ask a neighbor to ship home my third box of items since my bags were full! I bought fun stuff for everyone here at home and of course myself. We also went to the transfer station which is free. Mailboxes were rare in the neighborhood- everyone has to go to the post office to get their mail. That seems like a big pain to me.
As part of my native education I learned how to make my own plumeria lei. Oh the scent. It currently lives in my freezer.
May 1
Today is International Bereaved Mothers Day- a week before regular Mother's Day. It all just fucking hurts. I spent every morning of this adventure tearing up and every evening behind the dark crying softly, my heart broken open so wide that the light of Hawai'i poured in.
We were going to head to Polulu Point to catch the sunrise this morning but the weather didn't cooperate. Next time.
Finally went to Lapakahi State Historic Park for a personal tour because my friend is now a docent at the park. Lapakahi was a fishing village and is now full of ancient ruins from 700 years ago. Many lava rock foundations from the historic structures are still there. As are
ancient ruins. There is too much there to write about although i took a ton of photos.
Off to Keokea Beach Park to get in the water. Unfortunately, as soon as we got out of the vehicle the sky opened. The Universe conspired the entire time to keep me out of the water but I'm okay with it.
We went to the Bamboo Restaurant and Gallery in Hawi for lunch, shopping, and admiring the upstairs full of local art. I had some yummy ahi but unfortunately seared means almost raw so I had to send it back. With my sensitive digestive system messed up for two weeks I wasn't going to take a chance the day before I had a six hour flight.
And I finally saw the baby feral pigs that ravage my friend's yard nearly every night. Cute but destructive. Also, a Monarch butterfly. And lightning storm.
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