April 26
A looong day on the tour to Hakalua Forest National Wildlife Refuge to find Hawaiian endemic species found in a remnant native old growth forest of Acacia koa and 'ohi'a lehua (now the state endemic tree as of May). The public is only allowed in with a tour group in order to protect the refuge due to concerns about a disease called Rapid ʻŌhiʻa Death, which is killing the native trees. We had our shoes sprayed with bleach before we could walk around.
From the US Fish and Wildlife Service website, "The Hakalau Forest Unit was established in 1985 to protect and manage endangered forest birds like the Hawaiʻi ʻākepa, ʻakiapōlāʻau, and ʻiʻiwi, and their rainforest habitat. Located on the windward slope of Mauna Kea, Island of Hawai‘i, the 32,733 acre unit supports a diversity of native birds and plants. The Kona Forest Unit was set aside in 1997 to protect native forest birds and the ‘alalā. Located on the leeward slope of Mauna Loa, the 5,300 acre unit supports diverse native bird and plant species as well as the rare lava tube and lava tube skylight habitats." The 33,000 acre protected area was originally bought by the Nature Conservancy and is currently undergoing restoration of the understory and forest edges. Grazing and development has devastated much of the island's native habitat leading to massive extinction of native birds.
(Side note- unfortunately the 'alala (Hawaiian crow) is no longer found in the wild. The last five were captured in 2020 because the thirty released before were killed- likely by the I'o on the Big Island. Since the I'o is no longer found on the other islands, there is discussion of releasing 'Alala on Maui.)
The turn-off is on the road up Mauna Kea. We drove for ten miles on an unbelievably rough road to get to the gate. The road was so rough that my fitbit wannabe was recording steps! It said I had over 10,000 steps and that was before we got to our destination to actually walk! On the way we saw several Nene at the edges of miles of acres of invasive gorst. Plus, more non-native Erkel's francolin than I ever want to see again! LOL
Once there we piled out of the van, grabbed our cameras and lunches and of course, binoculars. A quick stop at the most interesting outhouse I've been in, then, off on the adventure we went. The first forest birds we ran into are the ones I was hoping to see- a forest of active I'iwis ! My whole day was made right there (good thing, too). Then a colorful 'Elepaio gleaning the branches. Then other birds as listed below. Unfortunately, I started feeling faint and my digestive system was unhappy. Because of the heat, the bad mango, getting up super early, and probably not enough liquids I had to miss the group run to see one of the rarest birds- the 'akiapoia'au. I also missed the 'Akepa although I got to see one of their nests.
My friend and I headed back to the van where I got to know the outhouse well. I also drank a lot of liquid and started feeling better. That's when we got a great view of an I'o over the field. In the end, it was a fantastic day!
The final bird list:
Natives, all endangered
Nene I'o
'Elepaio 'Oma'o (Hawaiian thrush)
Hawai'i Amakihi 'Alawi (Hawai'i creeper)
I'iwi Apapane
Pueo (several driving back down)
Along the way to and from-
Black francolin Erckel's francolin
Gray francolin Kalij pheasant
Wild turkey Spotted dove
Zebra dove Northern mockingbird
Common myna Red-billed leiothrix
Eurasian skylark House sparrow
House finch Pacific golden plover
April 27
Have I said before Common mynas are fucking everywhere? LOL
Today was a mix of wind, rain, and humidity as we planned for a visit to Mauna Kea Resort to eat dinner at the Hau Tree restaurant and then to Manta Point at the resort to see the mantas at night come up to the light at the point that attracts plankton.
At the resort we found the first tame "feral" cats at the outdoor Hau Tree restaurant. The sea bass dinner was delicious but I wasn't a fan of the hard to chew/eat bok choy. After dinner we wandered over to Manta Point to wait for dark and took in a beautiful sunset. There were several boats offshore with bright lights so until they left the mantas didn't show up. Then, it started-so many barrel-rolling manta rays just below us! It was magical. There was a crowd and constant oohs and ahhs. The rays really put on a show. It was so fun watching the kids excitement and chatting with the other folks. We were all joined by a Black-crowned night-heron hanging out on the point waiting to take advantage of the fish attracted by the plankton attracted by the light. I never did see it move although I was pretty mesmerized by the mantas.
April 28
Today it was back to Hilo via the mountain road with amazing views for the Hawai'i Vanilla Farm tour and lunch. Vanilla lemonade- heaven. The entire meal had hints of vanilla and was out of this world. One of the best ways to use vanilla is with citrus because citrus brings out the vanilla taste. The tour was short and informative. Now I know why vanilla beans can be so expensive. Very few places in the world grow vanilla. Here in Hawai'i the bee that pollinated the orchid is extinct so hand-pollination is how it's done. And that vanilla extract you buy, it's heavily watered down per FDA regulations. Learn to make your own! It's easy so I bought three vanilla bean pods to make some.
After the tour we headed to Waipi'o Valley lookout the opposite end of Polulu lookout. The view is just as amazing. On the way out we stopped at an out of the way gift shop near the historic town of Honoka'a and I bought lots of cool stuff which I've been doing my entire trip!
On the way home we stopped at the Cattle egret rookery next to the road near my friends house. There were hundreds flying in to their nests. The road and shoulders were covered in white feathers.
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